18 ottobre 2020

Rapporto Annuale Cina 2020 e il Mercato del Lusso Cinese Post-Covid

Il Rapporto Annuale è il più completo outlook sulla Cina attualmente presente in Italia, finalizzato a mostrare le prospettive per le imprese italiane in Cina. Una guida che raccoglie ricerche, analisi di rischio e previsioni nel breve-medio periodo sulla Cina e presenta gli scenari politici, economici e di accesso al business in Cina, con un focus sui settori di maggior interesse per le imprese italiane e le opportunità di investimento per le imprese cinesi in Italia. 

La Fondazione Italia Cina e il Centro Studi per l'Impresa (CeSIF) con Promex - Azienda Speciale CCIAA Padova e con il supporto di Made in Vicenza, il 15 Ottobre hanno organizzato un webinar di presentazione del Rapporto Annuale  “CINA 2020. Scenari e Prospettive per le Imprese”. Per il quarto anno consecutivo la PGDS Consulting di Milano ha redatto il capitolo Beni di Lusso. Al webinar ha presentato le ultime evoluzioni del mercato ed i consumi del Lusso in Cina.  

A questo link potete rivedere l’intero webinar e anche visionare la presentazione PGDS in merito al settore lusso. Il rapporto annuale in formato e-book è disponibile sui principali store on-line. qui potete trovare tutte le informazioni utili.     

03 settembre 2019

Presentazione Rapporto Annuale Cina 2019 a Padova

SAVE THE DATE Presentazione Rapporto Annuale Cina 2019. La Fondazione Italia Cina, in collaborazione con Promex - Azienda Speciale CCIAA Padova, presenta il X Rapporto Annuale CeSIF, "Cina 2019. Scenari e Prospettive per le Imprese" il 24 settembre alle 15 al Centro Conferenze alla Stanga, in piazza Zanellato 21 a Padova.

Il Rapporto Annuale elaborato dal Centro Studi per l’Impresa della Fondazione Italia Cina (CeSIF), giunto quest’anno alla sua decima edizione, è il più completo e citato outlook sulla Cina attualmente presente in Italia, finalizzato a mostrare le prospettive per le imprese italiane in Cina. Questa guida tramite analisi di rischio Paese presenta gli scenari politici, economici e di accesso al business in Cina, con un approfondimento dei settori di maggior interesse per le imprese italiane, e delle opportunità di investimento per imprese cinesi in Italia. Il capitolo "Beni di Lusso" e' redatto dalla PGDS Consulting di Milano.


11 marzo 2019

Donne, Millenials trainano i settori Moda e Lusso in Cina

Nel 2017, grazie ad una middle class che cresce e una maggiore sofisticatezza nelle scelte dei prodotti di lusso, i cinesi hanno incrementato i loro consumi del 20% rispetto al 2016, raggiungendo un totale di 18 miliardi di euro. Nel 2017, la quota cinese nei consumi globali del settore è cresciuta di due punti, fino a raggiungere un valore del 32%, mentre solo l’8% degli acquisti complessivi avvengono in Cina.  In ogni caso, il consumo di prodotti di lusso in Cina è aumentato dell’11% nello stesso periodo. Questo è dovuto sia ad una maggiore consumer confidence sia alla riduzione di dazi, che hanno portato a prezzi più ragionevoli, se confrontati con quelli occidentali. Mentre si lavora per far crescere gli acquisti all’interno del Paese. 
Protagonisti i consumatori di sesso femminile, che trascinano la crescita del settore, e i millennials con uno spazio sempre maggiore, che si ripercuote anche sul ruolo del digitale, che nel 2017 ha quasi pareggiato i canali di vendita tradizionali.

La Fondazione Italia Cina ha presentato la IX edizione del suo Rapporto Annuale "Cina. Scenari prospettive per le imprese”, il rapporto previsionale che raccoglie ricerche, analisi di rischio e previsioni nel breve-medio periodo sulla Cina. Il Rapporto è elaborato dal CeSIF, il Centro Studi per l’Impresa della Fondazione Italia Cina.

Per ricevere l’intero capitolo dedicato alla Moda e Lusso, redatto dalla PGDS Consulting, scrivere una mail di richiesta a pgdsconsulting@gmail.com

27 novembre 2018

Dolce&Gabbana and the Chinese Luxury Customer

I've always had huge respect for Italian craftsmanship and the manners with which the Italian fashion and luxury industries have developed over the years. But I couldn't be silent on this one. It's a textbook case and one that I hope to clarify being proudly part of the Italian fashion system and always a strong supporter of China and the Chinese, both of which I do truly love and respect.
After reading hundreds of reactions and comments across Chinese and Western social media channels, a crisis management situation erupted, continually mismanaged by a top Italian luxury brand, Dolce&Gabbana, doing business in a country, China, which is rapidly evolving and merits respect.

Since 2009 I've had the privilege of doing business in Mainland China and Hong Kong, lecturing about the Luxury industry (especially Italian brands) at Chinese institutions like Jiao Tong University and the Luxury in China Summit. Also, being involved in annual market research initiatives at the China Luxury Report (Fortune Character Institute) and with the Fondazione Italia Cina, have allowed me to see firsthand and understand the rapid progression of the Chinese Luxury Customers (I use the plural "s" because there are many levels and types of customers to comprehend in China). 
For some reason, in my presentations and case studies to date, I never utilized D&G (referencing the old logo) as an example of management style or example of coherence in the classroom. Perhaps it was their extravagant collections, the designers tone of voice or their apparent distance from more common members of the fashion system (like me), but perhaps I just couldn't connect with their history, direction or choice of words. Let's hope that changes, thanks to this experience. 

During one of my lectures last April, I referenced the negative aspects of an online advertising campaign on WeChat undertaken by D&G in China, called #DGLovesChina. It was a real management faux pas which immediately created an uproar on Chinese social media and prompted the brand to soon after remove the campaign images from the web. But the damage was done and the flags were up. It clearly demonstrated poor respect towards Chinese people and culture. 
The Great Wall of China, D&G and commoners? Taxi drivers and citizens on bikes shooting the breeze with fashionistas? Yin and Yang in the same picture? Don't tell me I'm in the position to wear or afford that stuff, and next to our national treasures and people!

Already at that time it was a warning sign for the design duo, who apparently did not do their marketing research by pre-testing the campaign while boldly assuming that a copy/paste marketing strategy in China could be utilised to impose their italianness. So the Chinese were already waiting for them at the next turn, giving them a second chance, but eventually showing no mercy, as the story goes... That was lesson number 1 which should have been a flag for not making the same mistake again. Unfortunately for them, this lesson was not learned and their autocratic and dictatorial management style continued unhindered.

It was the same style of campaign previously launched by D&G around Western world media in which real luxury models were shown in common Italian social settings like Sicily, Naples (see below) and Milan where the headquarters are located, in open air markets, street corners. Luxury juxtaposed to common folklore, food and religion, typical of the Italian roots of the brand. It looked fun, gai as they say in France and created movement and energy while portraying all the cultural innuendos that common life in Italy exudes, including Sofia Loren.

The build up to the purported November 22  #DGTheGreatShow event included an online video teaser campaign of three different videos launched on November 18th on the brand's Weibo account. It included a female model dressed in D&G, eating various Italian foods and with a male voiceover translation making apparent sexual references which clearly offended many. In their own way, it probably sounded cool and funny, coherent with the brand's values, to Stefano and Domenico, but it created bee nest mayhem to the incredibly connected and mobile Chinese luxury customers. They got in fights, exchanged profanity and ultimately brought the designers to their knees, requesting for an apology or duibuqi as they say in Chinese.

Now I can understand Stefano Gabbana trying to defend himself (minus the brown pictures) and the D&G social media team trying to deflect the news, but in hindsight going head to head with 1.3 billion people was a tough scenario. Impossible. It's like Italy declaring war against the United States during World War II. Impossible! But they tried it, and failed. Their apology did not feel sincere, the tension was palpable, they didn't want to be there, the backdrop surroundings looked austere and nervous and the apparent hurried preparation once again did not convince what is potentially going to be the world's largest luxury market by 2025. End of Lesson number 2.

But this is not the end, and is only the tip of the iceberg for all companies seeking to do or increase their business in China. The Chinese customer wants and demands respect, but is unforgiving. The Chinese luxury customer is gaining experience through its own purchases, traveling to the major fashion capitals of Paris, Milan, New York and Tokyo. Not just once a year, but sometimes up to 6 or 7 times. The middle class is rising and able to purchase more premium and luxury type goods. Millenials are upwardly mobile and demanding a more personal connection with western brands. They are demanding a more individual, fashion conscious and premium made in Italy, made in France etc. style of product, at the appropriate price BUT DEMAND MARKETING STYLES WHICH SPEAK TO THEM DIRECTLY AND SINCERELY, IN THEIR OWN LANGUAGE AND IN RESPECT OF THEIR CULTURE. 

Doing business in BRIC markets, especially China, requires a more glocal approach to management style and the humility in delegating authority to trusted local managers who can communicate the values and DNA of the brand while respecting local customs, traditions, history and current trends. Lesson learned, hopefully, with humility and respect, by a company who needs to relook not only their external actions but apparently also their internal management style, respecting even their own employees while intelligently entering international markets, all in the name of creativity. A good dose of calm, introspective analysis and new intelligent beginnings could allow Dolce&Gabbana to take steps in the right direction.

21 novembre 2016

Luxury Fashion Brand Management: an online course by London College of Fashion

What's the best way of understanding how top international luxury fashion brands increase their trust and influence on new customers worldwide, with a long-term and strategic approach to business? For those who have never worked inside the sales, marketing or communication departments of the Gucci's and Versace's of the world, the best way would be to enroll in one of the many specialized master's degree programs in the top fashion capitals of the world, like Paris, Milan, London and New York or maybe even emerging cities like Shanghai, Singapore or Shenzhen. This individual commitment to the fashion and luxury industry typically carries a heavy financial burden on families, but from my modest experience (and also based on feedback of colleagues in education), nothing is better than receiving firsthand information directly and face-to-face from knowledgeable and experienced professionals in the management, retail or creative fields.

What about the smoothness of touching silk fabrics by Ratti, the smell and feel of real leather inside a Bottega Veneta store, trying on a jacket at the tail end of the brand experience in Moncler's fitting rooms, combining appropriate bags, shoes or sunglasses to a new Miu Miu outfit, seeing the colors of the season reflected on Lake Como, drinking an espresso at Pasticceria Marchesi above the Prada store in Milan's Galleria Vittorio Emanuele or enjoying a piece of chocolate at the Bulgari Hotel? There's nothing like feeling the passion, warmth, strength and eye-to-eye contact in a real world environment, in the classroom or on the street.

But what if one can't manage to hop on a plane and spend minimum 12 months room and board to live and learn in one of those magnificent above cities? What if the desire to learn and experience the wonderful and hard-working luxury fashion industry outweighs any other possible solution? Well now, luckily, and thanks to advances in technology (and acceptance), there are alternatives for those living in far off places or having modest budgets. Or perhaps one is not sure yet whether to commit to the glossy world of Luxury Fashion. How does one carefully manage a niche Brand in the long-term and make it unique, desireable and exlusive? The result, an online course, beamed straight to your home, focused on the industry that you love or would love to love, could be the solution.

Quite frankly, at first, as I'm now accustomed to do, I was skeptical. Since I was hailing for the last 25 years from Milan and Italy, a touchy feely land of external looks and style, where any minimal mindset doubts are quickly overcome by a warm handshake or an emotional connection between people firsthand. What value was I to place on a course where my students were small bleeps on a screen and perhaps munching on Cheetos while multitasking on Twitter?

But I'm intrigued by Millenials, by GenZ, by China, by the power of Apple, by the Here Comes Everybody approach to marketing, and how companies need to continually evolve and stay transparent through an omnichannel experience, an ePresence, so I said: Yes, Let's Do It, let's become truly part of and connect with the new generations of future managers and creatives coming from Moldova, Bulgaria, Turkey, the Middle East, etc. and who knows where else. I'm curious and proud to share my inside fashion company experience, my international luxury project consulting advice and my streetside retail eyes and ears through electronic means with students, focusing on the direction the real world is taking us.

For more information, read my Interview with the London College of Fashion, the 6th rated Fashion School by Business of Fashion and see the details of my new online course sessions in Luxury Fashion Brand Management, starting from end-January 2017.

Stay connected, see you online! PGDS